Squamish

SQUAMISH. This winter Felix and I started to really realize that our time in the van was limited. We knew that by the end of the year we would be back to jobs, settling into a new home, and possibly having a child. SO what did we want to do with this precious time? I've known for a long time that Squamish is Felix's favorite place, even with just a short week here last summer he always tells anyone who asks that its his favorite place. So I said to Felix one night (possibly a little tipsy) "Why don't we just completely change plans and instead of going back to the East Coast we just go straight to Squamish and stay for as long as we can?" He looked at me like I handed him a gift he didn't know he wanted. 

So after Sweden, we made some stops to see friends and booked it straight to Squamish. It was the best decision and probably not for the reasons that you might think. Those reasons were: 

1. Pickleball and the people that came with it

2. Our favorite restaurant

3. The campground

4. Climbing

5. Biking

When I met Felix he was "A climber" and I climbed. I didn't realize the difference then but I am learning the difference after being with the guy for 6 years. When Felix falls in love with something, it consumes him. He thinks about it when he isn't doing it, he is always working at getting better at it, finds any way to talk about it, plans for the next time he can do it and pretends he cares about other things. After the wedding Felix made a gradual but also obvious shift into being "A pickleballer" and yes, I play pickleball. He still loves climbing and we still did plenty of it in Squamish, but pickleball took the number 1 spot - and I have learned to embrace the change and appreciate how Felix always pushes me to enjoy something more thoroughly rather than my normal "does a little of everything and likes it all". It's been a really fun change for us after climbing in different places for almost 2 years now. It has had it challenges, as anything will when you put 2 stubborn, competitive people who are also married and live in a van together on a pickleball court. But we have met some of the best people, been part of really fun communities and generally have just had an incredible time learning and loving this new hobby. 

The only bummer is we don't get the usual epic climbing photos, but these pickleball courts were beautiful nonetheless. 

Right away the Squamish pickleball community welcomed us with open arms. We met Tami and Ryan the second week we were there and they became great friends and hosts for our time there. Not only were they always so fun to play pickleball with but they also took us on some awesome mountain biking trails and we enjoyed a few nights at their place for dinners and laundry (clutch)! I am unfortunately really bad at taking pictures when I am with people so this is the only photo we have of them! 

The courts were always full of great people, great games, smiles and lots of bantering. 

One of the girls I met, Jaymee was supposed to play in a tournament with her husband Dan but he hurt his groin and couldn't play, so I volunteered Felix to take his place! They started playing together often in prep for the tournament which would be our last weekend in the area. 

Felix met a group of people that finally scratched his itch for some really competitive play. The biggest issue with Felix and I playing together is that he wants me to be able to give him the level of competition he wants..which I am just not there, yet! So he was so happy to have a consistent group of people who were exactly what he needed. I had the perfect excuse not to play with them because I actually rolled my ankle the second week and had to sit out for a week. I really do love pickleball but I don't crave the competition like Felix does, I had enough of that in high school, I really just want fun, good games. Now Felix is learning to play with me without such high expectations and things are going much better (for now) haha. 

We had a really great night with the main group of people we had been playing with, Mel and Pete hosted us, Jaymee and Dan and Ali and Shiera. They were such a fun mix of people and it was fun to bond over the similar pickleball addiction - to the point that we were even singing songs making up lyrics that had to do with pickleball haha. 

Shiera was the only one on top of taking pictures!!

Last night at the courts. For our last day we played pickleball from 12-6, trying to fit in games with everyone we could. 

The last weekend was the tournament! Mel and Neil (another favorite we played with a lot) played in the same bracket as Felix and Jaymee. The tournament was not the best, actually it was the worst. Terrible organization, no water or snacks, everything was later than scheduled but nothing was announced. Felix and Jaymee did not play their best (I am only allowed to say that because I saw them play SO much better so many times) but they still had great attitudes the whole time! 

Despite the tournament it was a great way to spend our last days there with great company!

Believe it or not we did spend time doing other things while we were there. I rolled my ankle the second week but ironically on that same day Felix got good news that he made it to the next step towards a Firefighter position in Las Vegas! So while I recovered, he prepped for the interview which led to a lot of time wandering the town. 

They had one last night of a summer music series while were there! 

Happy to be there if you can't tell. 

The town is just breathtaking. Full of natural beauty and man made beauty, murals everywhere and mountains in every direction.

We lucked out and there was a climbing festival the second weekend we were there that had free music, films and booths - similar to the Craggin Classic we go to in the states...but free? 

They had a climbing competition in the park. 

A favorite band of mine, Dirtwire was actually the band playing on Saturday night! I was so excited, and they did not disappoint. 

A concert selfie must?

There were lots of mornings that Felix would go pay pickleball with his "advanced" group and I would take the morning to myself and bike around or go to a coffee shop, which was very nice and relaxing. I would then join in later for some more casual play. 

Number 2 on the list! Our favorite restaurant. This is our third time in Squamish, we came for a week in 2019 before the van and again last summer. This sushi restaurant has the best views, best prices, you order up (no tip, if you know Felix, you know) and great food. Somehow we didn't go til the last 2 weeks but we went 3 times in that time span. 

Felix and his amazing photography skills. 

Another favorite spot! We came here with Mom and Dad in 2019, we almost forgot how pretty of a spot it was and were so glad we decided to go back at the very end of our time there. 

Great views, terrible photo. 

Number 3 was the campground! We got VERY lucky, as the campground is first come first serve and as we learned people basically live there and move around for the whole summer limiting open spots. Felix put me to work and I walked the campground trying to befriend people and ask around for possible openings. We met a sweet girl named Ana who offered us to join her spot for the night and long story short..we stayed for the 5 weeks we were there haha. We shared with multiple people and it worked out great. 

It felt like home. We set up showers most nights, had water and trash a short distance away, a glamorous pit toilet and an open area right behind our site for stretching, yoga and some art. 

I worked on a special drawing. I took a drawing Gavin had done years ago and it was in our condo in Fresno but I didn't keep it unfortunately when we moved out last Spring. I have kicked myself for not keeping it, obviously never expecting how much it would mean to me. So I took the time to re-create it, and I loved the process, I loved thinking about Gavin during it and his love for art and creativity and monkeys. 

I plan to put in front and center by our entryway like it was at our old place. 

The campground made an excellent interview spot for Felix! His first round interview for one of the departments he applied for was online. So we spiffed up the place, got Felix all dressed and ready and I waited patiently in Ana's van as he aced the interview!

We will never know if they could tell he was in a van..

Number 4, climbing! Yes, we still climbed and still loved it every time. My ankle injury did set us back a little but we still fit in some classics. There were plenty of days that we would spend the morning/afternoon at the courts and finish the day with a climb to avoid the crowds and we had incredible luck/timing never having to wait (which is very common in Squamish on classic climbs) 

Calculus Crack/Direct, a 5.9 5 pitch climb on the Apron. 

Overlooking Squamish at sunset.

Views don't get much better than this.

We fit in one day of bouldering before I hurt my ankle and never made it back. The only photos we got were Felix sending an easy but tall V0 called Summer Vacation. 

Felix put up Apron Strings, a 2 pitch 10b. 

That led us to a 10a call Seasoned in the Sun which we both led!

We were starting to climb harder but after my ankle we went back to some easier classics to see how it felt. 

Felix led us up some variation of St. Vitus's Dance, 5.9. 

A few days later we did a climb we both had been wanting to do every trip but it never worked out til this one. The route is called Skywalker, a 5 pitch 5.8 which has a fun and airy traverse but the best part is it takes you to some pools at the top of a waterfall!

The pools. 

We had it to ourselves for awhile, the water was chilly but refreshing and practically healed my sore ankle. 

Happy happy. Getting in natural water will always be a favorite of mine.

Had to capture the lighting. 

We fit in one "big" day but chose any easier one that actually had lots of walking between pitches since my ankle was still pretty swollen and sore. 

The climb was called Stairway to Heaven, 13 pitches 10c with mixed sport and trad routes. This took us to the top of the first peak of the Chief and was actually one of my favorite long days we have had. 

Maybe that's because there were plenty of rest spots between pitches like this one. 

Some glamour shots.

Some exposed walking..

Climbing rocks or trees?

My ankle hung in there but it was humorous how beat up my right leg was. Rolled ankle, bee sting on top of rolled ankle (yes) scabs bleeding from prior falls..but she hung in there and was treated with more fresh cold water at the end of the climb. 

More rest spots. 

Then the top! Our third trip to Squamish and third top out on the Chief and the view doesn't get old. 

"Instagram"

"Reality"

An iconic look. 

Very impressed Felix captured this despite his limited commitment to the shot. 

I led another 10a, called Nubile Woman. I started this trip climbing 5.9s on trad and am ending leading 5.9/10a's on trad and I will be happy leading that grade for the rest of my life I think. Felix and I have both come to realize pushing ourselves in certain realms of climbing just isn't that fun for us, our relationship with climbing is shifting but we are finding the place that feels safe and fun for us. 

I think Felix and I both agree that one of the very best things about climbing is the elevated and remote  views that you get.

Felix getting artistic with his climbing photography. 

Honestly cannot remember which climb this one is from, but the water and sky that day were so perfectly clear and blue.

Top of Slhanay, we did a climb called The Great Game, 4 pictches at 10d, one of the best we did!

For a perfect climbing finish we did some cragging at the Smoke Bluffs which is right in town, it felt like the perfect goodbye to the area since we have climbed there so many times over our 3 different visits. 

Lastly, but not least was the biking! It's always hard to capture the fun and beauty of mountain biking, but Squamish had some of the best trails we have been on during this trip!

Some views from trails in town.

Moody.

Typically the trails were through forests like these.

We went to an area called diamondback twice because it was so good. 

Half Nelson was the coolest ride, it felt like you were in a video game winding through the woods up and down bridges and through smooth turns. Pseudo tsuga was a close second. 

We found a burger spot with a great deal on Thursdays and became regulars, on our way in I asked Felix to grab my sunglasses so he naturally grab my "sports" sunglasses and he took advantage of my stylish look for the night. 

On our very last day in Squamish, before we spent the entire afternoon at the pickleball courts I hiked to the top of the gondola called Sea to Sky summit. You can pay to go up and down or hike up and pay a smaller fee to take the gondola down. Felix did not join since he was playing in the tournament the next day, but it was a perfect way to say goodbye to the breathtaking area. 

At the top they have a full cafe/restaurant, more trails, this suspension bridge and multiple look out spots. 

Squamish felt like the perfect "ending" to our vanlife, as Felix is getting job interviews and I am looking for a travel gig soon, our time is coming to a close in the van. I thought it would be a dramatic moment or transition but it has felt surprisingly natural and easy, the timing and feelings tied to it just feel right. We are not sick of vanlife by any means, it simply just feels complete to us. We did have a night in City of Rocks, Idaho where we danced in the middle of nowhere in the moonlight to techno music and that will forever stay in my mind as a night of closure and gratefulness.